The last day in Quebec

Our last day in Quebec was mostly outside of Quebec. We rented a car and headed to l'Ile d'Orléans, the island in the middle of the St. Lawrence river. It is supposedly the home of the oldest French families in North America. It was beautiful, and it was a beautiful day, so the drive was pleasant, and we found some good things to eat. 

The traditional Québécois house has a red or blue roof, which looks pretty awesome against the white snow.

One of our stops was at a Cabane a Sucre - a sugar shack - where they make maple syrup and other products. The folks at this one were great. A young woman gave us a tour of the process, and she was given prompts by the owner of the place. He was one of 12 siblings, and this operation is now in its fourth generation. 

This particular operation is done the old-fashioned way, by driving a short tap through the bark and hanging a bucket under it. The whole family spends 2 hours each day during the maple season collecting buckets full of sap. They are collected one at a time. In other operations, the taps are attached to tubing, which collects the sap and drains to a central collection spot. 

Our driver, the owner, and our muscle, his horse. They gave us a tour of the maple trees, most of which had buckets attached. In the stillness, you could hear the sap drip into the buckets. Vicki asked how long it took for a bucket to fill, and the owner said that it was up to God. Maple season occurs when the nighttime temperature is below freezing and the daytime temperature is above freezing. It is only then that the sap rises from the roots and can be tapped. 

This guy was fiercely proud of what he has accomplished and the land he owns. He told me there was no amount of money that anyone could offer for his land. 

This cabin was one his grandfather built, and where a family actually lived. It was tiny.

So we drove all the way around the island, and, of course, we worked up an appetite. We had been told this particular Auberge would be serving lunch, but when we got there, we were told that they would open for dinner later on. However, she shortly added, "All I have to offer is soup and crême brûlée." Say no more - she showed us into the empty dining room, and we were given a butternut squash soup that was killer, served with bread and beverages, then a chocolate crême brûlée.

It was a wonderful meal with an incredible view of the river.

The St. Lawrence River is a tidal river, so it flows two ways. It's quite a confusing thing to see. When we were at lunch, we could see part of the river (furthest from us) flowing toward the ocean and another part (closer to us) flowing inland. You can see it on the video; watch how the waters through the fence move a different direction from the ones further out. 

https://youtu.be/l4tQuTY9fH0

After lunch, we left the island to head to the Hôtel de Glacé, or Ice Castle. Historically, during the Carnaval, an ice castle is built against the fortifications of Quebec. This has been going on for hundreds of years. But about 16 years ago, a businessman decided that he would build a massive ice castle outside of town. Each year, they rebuild this from snow and ice for a January opening, and each year, around the end of March, they bulldoze it.

This is the ice chapel - there will be 3 weddings held in here tomorrow.

This is one of the panels of ice blocks. At night, the light from the inside is visible.

There are multiple ice columns, sculptures, and carvings inside, which stays at a constant 32 degrees.

A mermaid....

One of the bedrooms is shown below. Yes, about 100 people sleep here each night, paying $200 and up for the privilege. You get a very warm sleeping bag, but it is basically ice camping. 

Every room is decorated differently. Some have a fireplace in them, and some have access to hot tubs and a sauna outside.

A bear and his fish dinner.

That same panel above, from the inside.

One of the carvings over the bar.

Below are ice glasses on the bar. They mix your cocktails and serve them in these. Needless to say, you need gloves. Definitely in the rocks, rather than on them.

I am up for a night here, but I will have to do it alone, because Vicki won't be with me!

Driving back to Quebec, we stopped at a grocery for ziplock ($8!!!) so that we can vacuum-pack some clothes to make room for booze. :) We also stopped for bubble wrap (for said booze). Heading back into Quebec, our map voice at one point told us to turn left on "Rue Dooky," aka Rue du Quay. Silly American navigation voices. 

Back in Québec, we had one last dinner at our favorite place, Café St. Malo. Vicki sticks with what she knows and loves - French onion soup and the warm goat cheese salad - but there are things that I haven't tried yet, so I ordered appetizers - four of them. The server is amused.

Salmon tartare...

escargots...

A sideways photo of smoked salmon, and 

And grilled blood sausage.

I am quite content. 

Tomorrow, we take the train back to Montreal, where we will have dinner at O Noir, a restaurant that has service in complete darkness. We will not have food photos.